Cleansing milk: Japan’s secret for dry and sensitive skin

Cleansing milk is an oil-in-water emulsion. This describes very well how it works: fine oil droplets, evenly suspended in an aqueous liquid, dissolve oil-soluble impurities such as sun cream, foundation, light make-up and sebum. At the same time, the aqueous component absorbs sweat and fine dust. The consistency is reminiscent of liquid cream and the pH value is typically between 5.0 and 6.0, which is close to the skin’s natural acid mantle of approximately 5.5.

Why is this important? Traditional foaming cleansers and bar soaps have pH levels of between 8 and 10. Such alkaline cleansers temporarily alter the skin’s pH balance, which usually has no lasting effect in younger years. As we age, when the stratum corneum becomes thinner, sebum production decreases and the regeneration cycle lengthens, this shift leads more quickly to dryness, micro-inflammation and a weakened skin barrier. Cleansing milk does not cause this stress.

A well-formulated cleansing milk contains surfactants in mild concentrations, along with lipids such as squalane and moisturising ingredients like glycerine or trehalose, and is free from sulphates, denatured alcohol and harsh fragrances. This is a well-thought-out formula for skin that can no longer tolerate what it used to put up with in its twenties. Anyone who has experienced the difference will wonder, at most, why this product is given so little shelf space in European chemists.

Cleansing milk in its modern form is a Japanese product, even though creamy cleansers have been known in Europe since ancient times. Its roots go back to the Edo period, when Japanese women used nuka-bukuro (ぬか袋): small cloth bags filled with rice bran. When dipped in warm water and swabbed across the face, they released a milky emulsion containing natural surfactants derived from rice bran lipids and saponins, as well as antioxidants and vitamin E. Even back then, this method was the only way to completely remove the heavy, snow-white make-up worn by geishas and Kabuki actors without severely irritating the skin.

In the late 19th century, the first Japanese cosmetics companies began to incorporate this principle into modern formulations. Whilst Europe relied on soaps in the 20th century and later on foaming products, Japan remained true to the principle already used in nuka-bukuro: thorough cleansing that respects the skin’s lipid barrier.

This approach also gave rise to the well-known double cleansing method: first an oil- or milk-based product, then a water-based cleanser. In Japan, this was never a trend, but a routine practised for decades. It was only with the global rise of East Asian cosmetics in the 2010s that the concept found its way to Europe. What sets Japan apart in the history of cosmetics is its willingness to invest decades in the development of a single product category. Cleansing milk is a result of this patience.

To decide whether cleansing milk is the right choice for you, it’s best to compare it with other types of facial cleansers. Each type of cleanser has situations where it works particularly well, and others where it is less suitable.

Cleansing cream is richer and, at first glance, similar, but has a higher lipid content, which can clog the pores in some skin types. Cleansing oil reliably removes even heavy make-up, but may be too intense for thin skin or skin prone to rosacea. Cleansing balms are a firmer version of oil; they feel pleasant on the skin but can be too rich and less hygienic – think: jars. Cleansing gels and foams feel refreshing but tend to leave oily skin types ‘squeaky clean’ in the short term and dried out in the long term. Micellar water is handy for on the go, but leaves behind surfactant residues if not rinsed off thoroughly, and is poor at removing waterproof make-up. Solid facial soaps vary greatly in pH level and surfactant strength. Many facial soaps are too harsh for regular use without subsequent toning.

Cleansing milk strikes the perfect balance: it’s thorough enough to remove sun cream and light to medium make-up, yet gentle enough to be used twice a day.

As the table shows, cleansing milk isn’t a specialist product with a superpower, but a reliable all-rounder.

Anyone who compares a Japanese and a European cleansing milk side by side will notice three significant differences.

Firstly, the texture: Japanese formulations are generally lighter, almost watery, and designed to emulsify with water. European cleansing milks are thicker and usually designed for use with cotton pads, a legacy of French pharmacy cosmetics.

Secondly, the ingredients: Japanese cleansing milks often contain plant-based oils that resemble the skin’s own lipid profile (e.g. rice bran, camellia, macadamia, squalane). The texture tends to be thinner, and the application philosophy emphasises slow, manual massage rather than quick removal. European products are often creamier, more heavily perfumed and designed more for comfort than for skin barrier physiology.

Thirdly, the approach to fragrance: In Japanese cleansers, perfumes and essential oils are deliberately used sparingly, and are sometimes omitted entirely. This makes the product seem less impressive when used. However, it is a choice that dermatologists welcome, as fragrances are among common triggers of contact reactions.

Both approaches have their merits. Those who appreciate rich textures and a strong fragrance experience will find European products well suited to their needs. Those seeking light textures and a functional approach will generally be more satisfied with Japanese cleansing milks. For skin that becomes more sensitive with age, the Japanese option is usually the safer choice.